Some weekends just scream “please put me on a dirt road and don’t talk to me for 48 hours.” This was one of those weekends. I loaded up the van with the essentials—clothes, food, my husband, and Finn (the furry one who doesn’t help pack but supervises with judgment).
We rolled out of Bend, Oregon, pointed the van southeast, and set off to find new corners of the state filled with hot springs, big skies, and the kind of desert silence that hits your brain’s reset button like a factory reboot.
This route is basically a road trip sampler platter: craters, tuff towers, ancient petroglyphs, steamy soak spots, and long glorious stretches of absolutely nothing. And honestly? The nothing is the best part. If you’re craving space, this loop hands you an all you can wander buffet.
We pulled it off between Friday and Sunday… but if you’ve got an extra day? Oh, friend—take it. Your sanity will write you a thank-you note.
Stop 1: Hole in the Ground — Warming Up the Weekend
The first stop about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Bend was Hole in the Ground, a massive volcanic crater you can literally drive down into if the road is dry. When you roll up to the rim, the earth suddenly drops away like someone scooped out a giant bowl.
Ok, for the history seekers.... first a little history. Hole in the Ground in south-central Oregon is one of the state’s most striking volcanic features—a large, nearly circular maar crater located in the Fort Rock–Christmas Lake Valley basin. Formed between 13,000 and 100,000 years ago, the crater was created when rising magma encountered groundwater near the surface. The sudden contact caused a massive steam explosion—known as a phreatic eruption—that blasted out a hole nearly a mile wide and 500 feet deep. Unlike a lava-filled crater, a maar like Hole in the Ground is shaped by violent expansion of steam rather than flowing molten rock. Over time the crater’s steep walls and bowl-shaped interior have softened under erosion, though the overall structure remains remarkably intact. Early explorers, homesteaders, and surveyors in the late 1800s recorded the feature as an odd landmark in an otherwise flat volcanic plain, and it has since become a popular stop for geology enthusiasts, photographers, and off-the-beaten-path wanderers. Today, the site sits quietly among ponderosa pine forest and desert sagebrush—an otherworldly reminder of Oregon’s explosive volcanic past.
We parked the van, stepped out, and the only sound was the wind pushing through the pines. It was the perfect “okay, we’re doing this” moment to kick off the trip. Knowing there was no way my camera was going to capture the vastness of this space, I tried to snap a couple of pics anyway and then I stood at the edge of the rim and soaked it in. Want to walk into the hole? Or drive? Both can be done. Have an extra night on your trip and want to camp? Others have.... just pick one of the spots with the rock formed fire pits set up.
Travel Tip:
If you do drive down into the crater, the final road into the crater gets rough—go slow, and if it’s muddy, skip driving in and walk. Camping for the night? Please pack everything out and keep this place pristine for others to visit
Stop 2: Fort Rock — A Desert Castle for Wandering Souls
About an hour further passed Hole in the Ground was the next stop at Fort Rock, one of those places that feels almost unreal. A giant ring of volcanic rock rising out of the sage like a fortress guarding nothing but rabbits and the sky.
Fort Rock is a striking volcanic formation located in south-central Oregon, named for its resemblance to a medieval fortress rising abruptly from the surrounding high desert. It is a tuff ring—a type of volcanic feature formed when molten lava explosively interacted with groundwater or surface water, sending ash and rock fragments into the air that settled around the vent to form steep walls. Fort Rock is estimated to be about 1.8 million years old, making it part of the larger Fort Rock–Christmas Lake Valley volcanic field.
The natural “fortress” stands roughly 440 feet high and spans more than a mile across, creating a nearly circular rim that encloses a shallow basin. Its dramatic cliffs and bowl-like interior have made it a notable landmark for millennia. Archaeologically, the area surrounding Fort Rock is significant: in the 1930s, excavations in nearby caves uncovered sandals and other artifacts dating back as far as 9,000 to 10,000 years, some of the oldest evidence of human habitation in Oregon. These findings suggest that Indigenous peoples used the area for seasonal hunting and gathering and may have sought shelter within the crater during harsh weather.
Early European-American settlers and explorers also noted Fort Rock as an unusual and visually commanding feature in the otherwise flat high desert. Today, it is a popular destination for hikers, photographers, and history enthusiasts, offering both dramatic views and a tangible connection to Oregon’s deep volcanic and human history. The combination of natural spectacle and archaeological significance makes Fort Rock a unique landmark in the state’s high desert landscape.
I hiked along the inner rim, listening to the ravens calling overhead and soaking in the sun bouncing off the rock walls. I love how tiny it makes you feel in the best possible way.
Travel Tip:
Fort Rock can be gusty, so bring a windbreaker or you’ll be doing the involuntary desert-shiver dance.
Stop 3: Picture Rock — A Quiet Moment with History
A side road leads to Picture Rock Pass, where ancient petroglyphs sit tucked into basalt cliffs. There’s something grounding about standing in front of symbols carved centuries ago—simple, intentional marks that have survived longer than any of us will.
Picture Rock Pass, is where you pull off a side road (or stop on the side of the road) to see Picture Rock Pass Petroglyphs, is one of the region’s most culturally important archaeological sites. Located near the top of Picture Rock Pass, these petroglyphs are carved into a basalt boulder positioned along an ancient travel corridor used for thousands of years. The markings are believed to have been created by Indigenous peoples of the Great Basin, most likely ancestors of the Klamath, Modoc, and Paiute tribes.
While the exact age of the carvings is unknown, many archaeologists estimate they could be several hundred to several thousand years old, based on weathering patterns and comparisons to other Great Basin rock art. The images include abstract lines, grooves, anthropomorphic forms, and geometric patterns—symbols that may have represented spiritual beliefs, astronomical observations, clan identifiers, or markers along seasonal travel and hunting routes.
Picture Rock sits in a landscape shaped by ancient lakes, volcanic eruptions, and migrating wildlife, making it a natural gathering and passage point long before modern roads took the same route. When early settlers and survey crews passed through in the 1800s, they noted the carvings but left little recorded interpretation, and the meaning of the symbols remains open to cultural understanding and archaeological curiosity. Today, Picture Rock stands as a quiet reminder of the long human history in Oregon’s high desert—an enduring connection to the people who lived, traveled, and told stories across this landscape long before the present day.
Travel Tip:
The side road can be rutted. Go slow, and please stay on designated paths—this site is culturally sensitive and deserves full respect. If you park on the side of the road, make sure and be pulled off the road fully. Use the path to take the short walk to Picture Rock. Don't litter or vandalize the ancient carvings.
Night 1: Summer Lake Hot Springs — Steam, Silence & the Desert Glow
Rolling into Summer Lake Hot Springs just as the sky turned pink felt like arriving at a desert spa run by Mother Nature herself— robes and swimsuits optional. Not into camping? No worries. Some genuinely adorable cabins let you enjoy all the magic without sleeping in a metal box on wheels.
After hours of dust, dirt roads, and pretending I’m far more athletic than I actually am while scrambling up craters, sinking into that hot mineral water was pure, unfiltered bliss. You can soak in the big steamy barn pool or head outside to one of the smaller pools. I went for the outdoor ones—they run hotter and come with a panoramic view of the night sky that makes you forget you ever liked trees better. I’m usually a forest-and-mountain loyalist, but this slice of desert? It’s both breathtaking and calming, like nature’s version of a deep exhale.
I slept in the van with curtain-free windows, because who needs curtains when the stars are basically putting on a talent show just for you? The only sounds were the marsh grass whispering and the occasional bird checking in like, “Everything good out there, buddy?”
Travel Tip:
The cabins are cute, the camping is simple, and that’s exactly the charm. Bring sandals for the bathhouse, a towel that doesn’t stay damp until retirement, and enough layers for those surprisingly chilly nights. Summer Lake Hot Springs is open year-round, but note that the indoor pools typically close around mid-November.
Stop 4: The Alvord Desert — A Playground of Silence
The next morning, after coffee with the sunrise (which makes it taste 40% better, scientifically speaking), we aimed the van toward the Alvord Desert. Adding this detour definitely tacked a few extra hours onto the drive, but when you’re already roaming around the Oregon desert, “a few extra hours” starts to feel like part of the adventure package.
On the way, we stopped at Alvord Hot Springs—where you can camp or rent one of the old military bunkers. The soaking pools are small but perfectly placed, offering front-row seats to the vastness of the Alvord Desert. The playa itself is enormous: flat, white, cracked, and so silent it feels like it’s rebooting your nervous system in the best way.
This time of year, the desert is far too wet to drive on. The caretaker confirmed this by casually mentioning he’d already pulled someone out earlier that day—apparently the mud here has a taste for vehicles. In the dry season, though, people swear driving across the playa feels like floating.
We stayed just long enough to chat with the caretaker, check out the pools, and meet a few fellow Bend folks who were soaking their way through the weekend. Then it was back on the road to our final stop for the night: Crane Hot Springs.
Travel Tip:
Always check playa conditions. If it’s wet, do not drive on it—it turns into peanut-butter mud that snacks on tires, bumpers, and your dignity. You’re a long way from anything out here, so bring plenty of water and sun protection. There is zero shade (especially important if you’re visiting in the hot months).
Night 2: Crane Hot Springs — The Perfect Ending Soak
After the Alvord, we cruised north to Crane Hot Springs for our second night. When we pulled in, we immediately noticed they’ve expanded—more ponds, more paths, more room for desert wandering. We stretched our legs with Finn and took a leisurely loop around the new ponds before settling into our campsite. A small campfire, a slow sunset, and the promise of a soak later… honestly, that’s my kind of evening.
The main soaking pond at Crane is enormous, outdoors, and framed by nothing but open sky. I slid into the hot water just as the first stars clocked in for the night shift, and it felt like the whole weekend let out a collective sigh right along with me. There’s also a smaller pool connected to the main pond—the “hotter, adults-only” option.
This soak definitely had more people and families than Summer Lake—so it's not exactly the rustic, clothing-optional vibe of the previous night. But even with the extra chatter, it was still magical and deeply calming.
I fell asleep in the van feeling the good kind of exhausted—the kind that means you used your day well.
Travel Tip:
Book ahead! Crane is getting popular, especially if you want a room or cabin instead of a campsite. And bring a robe or towel for the chilly shuffle between your soak and your van or cabin.
Heading Back to Bend — Heart Full, Hair Still Smelling Like Hot Springs
On the last morning, I watched the sunrise from our campsite at Crane, sipping coffee while the sky changed from dark to light with brilliant orange shades of color. Then we pointed the van back toward Bend, rested, happy and playlist rolling.
Southeastern Oregon delivers a special kind of magic—one made of wide-open landscapes, volcanic drama, and hot water bubbling up from the earth. If you’re craving solitude, starry skies, and a weekend that feels like more than two days, this route is the adventure you want.